Posts Tagged ‘Tutorial’

Time Saver

A couple of years ago I hurt my shoulder falling on the icy road in a Canadian February. It was months before I could use my right arm normally again. Losing my sense of which side is right and which is left isn’t the only downside this injury had; it also severely cut into my crocheting time. I was basically left with only one activity: watching tv.

During this time, I found myself wondering if it would be possible to crochet with my feet. I was a bit bleary-brained at the time due to pain killers, and after a while I forgot about it.

Recently I was looking at my extensive WIP pile and thinking about all of the patterns I have yet to try, and getting frustrated trying to find places to keep all of my yarn, and the “crocheting with feet” idea came back to me.

feet

Brilliant, isn’t it?

Think about it: you’d get twice as much done! Or, get things done in half the time! Or crochet while doing any number of things that require your hands – surf the web, read a book, eat dinner…

The only thing I had trouble with was inserting the hook. I think it’ll get easier with practice, though. If you try it, let me know how it goes!

Double Crochet

This post is about the double crochet stitch (dc in patterns). This is the US term. The UK term for it is treble crochet (tr in patterns). Make sure you know which terminology is being used in the pattern you’re using!

Let’s start!

Here we are at the end of the previous row:
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(For working into the base chain, refer to the Insert Hook post. Ignore the following turning chain information, and work your first dc into the 4th chain from the hook)

The turning chain for this stitch is 3ch. This counts as a stitch. Patterns assume you know this, and will specifically say otherwise if they want you to do something else.

So chain 3:
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And turn:
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Before we start the stitch, let’s look at where we’re going to put it:
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The red arrow is pointing to the first stitch in the row below. We’re not going to work into that one because, as I said earlier, the turning chain counts as a stitch. If we put one here, we’ll have too many!

Instead, work your first “real” stitch into the second stitch of the row below, where the green arrow is pointing.
(for the colour blind: Red arrow is on the right. Green is on the left)

Here’s the stitch:

Yarn over:
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Insert hook, then yarn over (grab the yarn):
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Pull the loop up (3 loops on hook):
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Grab the yarn (yarn over):
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Pull through 2 loops (2 loops left on hook):
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Grab the yarn (yarn over):
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Pull through 2 loops:
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Done!

To continue, here are the instructions without the pictures:
Yarn over. Insert hook. Yarn over, pull through (3 loops on hook). Yarn over. Pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Done.

I use this stitch more than any other! It’s good for blankets, scarves, hats, slippers, motifs… It’s the main stitch used in Granny Squares. It works up quickly, so is good for larger items. This stitch is also commonly used in filet crochet and other thread crochet.

It’s not a good stitch for anything you plan on stuffing though, like an amigurumi or a pillow, as the stuffing will show between the stitches.

Any questions?

Single Crochet

This post is about single crochet (sc in patterns). This is the “US” term we use for this stitch. This same stitch is called double crochet (dc in patterns) in the UK. Always make sure you know which version the pattern means!

Let’s start!
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(This tutorial starts on the second row. Refer to the Insert Hook post for ways to work into a base chain)

First, we need a “turning chain”. This is perhaps a poorly named maneuver because you’re not always going to use it to turn. This chain is used entirely to get the hook to the right height to match the stitch you’re about to do.

The standard turning chain for single crochet is “chain 1″. This is the only time the turning chain doesn’t count as a stitch. This is what patterns are expecting you to know. If they want you to do this differently, the pattern will say so explicitly.

So, chain 1:

Yarn over:
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Pull through:
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And turn:
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Since the turning chain for a sc doesn’t count as a stitch, you’ll want to work your first sc into the first stitch available. (Again, the pattern will say otherwise if the designer wants you to do something else).

Insert the hook in the first stitch and grab the yarn (yarn over)
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And pull the loop through so you have two loops on the hook:
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Make sure all loops make it onto the shaft of the hook, otherwise you’ll end up crocheting very tightly and unevenly.

Grab the yarn again (yarn over)
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and pull it through both loops on your hook:
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Continue in the same manner for the rest of the single crochet stitches:
insert hook, yarn over, pull through (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. Done.

Generally speaking, single crochet is used when you want a dense fabric, and is the primary stitch used when making amigurumi (cute little crocheted dolls). Sc is also commonly used when making a ribbed fabric, by working the stitches into the back loop only. You might also see this stitch used for shaping and in lace.

When making a flat fabric with this stitch, it is common for the corners to curl. If you’re using a natural fibre yarn, you can usually block the piece and the curling goes away. Acrylic yarn will usually sort itself out in the wash. You can also avoid this issue by crocheting more loosely (by using a bigger hook), or adding a border.

Any questions?