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This tutorial gets its own page because of the sheer number of pictures involved (over 50!).

(Click on the picture to see a Flickr gallery of hats made using this pattern!)

The pattern for the hat is available in two sizes, adult and child (click the one you want for the Google document)

If you are not familiar with crochet-on-the-double, I recommend trying out this tutorial for it first. It explains how CotD works without the complication of short rows that the hat requires.

For the purposes of this tutorial, I’m using the adult hat pattern. If you decide to go with a different size, just ignore the stitch counts I mention.

In the pictures I’ve made a swatch that started with 15 stitches, then removed 2 stitches at a time, 5 times (as in the pattern), leaving only 5 stitches. So, it follows the pattern of decreases in the pattern; it’s only the bulk of the regular stitches that are missing.

Yarn: Bernat Satin, uses the equivalent of 1 ball for each side of hat

Hook: 6mm double-ended hook

This pattern is for crochet-on-the-double, using the Tunisian Simple Stitch. Each row has two parts, A and B, in A you lift loops onto the hook, in B you turn and work them off

MC = main colour
CC = contrasting colour

Pattern:
ch 50 in MC

Row 1A – lift up one loop in 2nd ch from hook,

and in each subsequent ch (50 loops on hook, including starting loop)

Row 1B – (move stitches to the other end of the hook) turn,

pull a loop of CC through first loop of MC.

*pull a loop of CC through two loops*

repeat until 1 loop of CC remains on hook.

Row 2A – loop on hook counts as first loop, insert hook from right to left through vertical bar of the second stitch from the hook on the previous row,

pull up a loop of CC.

Do this for every subsequent stitch (50 loops on hook)

Row 2B – (move stitches to other end of hook) turn, pull a loop of MC through the first loop on hook.

*pull a loop of MC through two loops* repeat until 1 loop of MC remains.

Row 3A – pull up a loop in the second vertical bar from the hook, and continue to pull up loops until there are 2 vertical bars left (48 loops on hook) Red arrows pointing at 2 leftover vertical bars:

Row 3B – )move stitches to other end of hook) turn,

work loops off in CC

Row 4A – work loops on in CC (48 loops on hook)

Row 4B – (move stitches to other end of hook) turn, work loops off in MC

Row 5A – work loops on in MC until there are two vertical bars left (46 loops on hook). The red arrows show the two vertical bars left last time, the blue arrows show the two vertical bars left this time:

Row 5B – turn, work loops off in CC

Row 6A – work loops on in CC (46 loops on hook)

Row 6B – turn, work loops off in MC

Row 7A – work loops on in MC until there are two vertical bars left (44 loops on hook)

Row 7B – turn, work loops off in CC

Row 8A – work loops on in CC (44 loops on hook)

Row 8B – turn, work loops off in MC

Row 9A – work loops on in MC until there are two vertical bars left (42 loops on hook)

*picture somehow missing… not sure what happened! Look at previous “miss two stitches at the end” pictures for reference*

Row 9B – turn, work loops off in CC

Row 10A – work loops on in CC (42 loops on hook)

Row 10B – turn, work loops off in MC

Row 11A – work loops on in MC until there are two vertical bars left (40 loops on hook)

Row 11B – turn, work loops off in CC

Row 12A – work loops on in CC (40 loops on hook)

Row 12B – turn, work loops off in MC

Row 13A – work loops on in MC, 40 loops from previous row, plus the 2 missed vertical bars from each previous row (50 loops on hook)

Row 13B – turn, work loops off in CC. This step will seem kind of hole-y, or lace-y, but that is normal. Just try your best to keep things even:

Row 14A – work loops on in CC (50 loops on hook) Any lace-y-ness should start working itself out at this point:

Row 14B – turn, work loops off in MC

One wedge made!

Repeat from 3A to 14B until you have 8 wedges

Like this (red arrows point to the first two missed vertical bars) :

To finish, slip stitch to bind off both colours by *inserting the hook through the next vertical bar, pull a loop through it and the loop on the hook* until you reach the end. Do the MC first, then the CC. Leave LONG tails.

Use the CC tail to sew the last row made to the first row (try to join it with the CC of the first row if you can). Use the MC tail to weave in and out of the stitches at the top of the hat, pull tightly like a drawstring until the hole at the top is closed. Secure with a knot, then use the rest of that tail to sew the seam down on the MC side of the hat. Weave in all ends.

***ALTERNATE FINISHING TECHNIQUE***

A more “hidden” way to sew up the seam begins where it says “To finish…” two paragraphs above.

The new way to finish: slip stitch to bind off MC by *inserting the hook through the next vertical bar, pull a loop through it and the loop on the hook* until you reach the end. Cut the yarn and finish off.

Fold the seams together so that the CC is predominant on the outside of the hat, and use the CC to slip stitch the two edges together. Leaving a long tail, cut the yarn and finish. Use the long tail to weave in and out of the stitches around the hole at the top, and pull tight like a drawstring. Secure with a knot, then weave in all ends.

This creates a less obvious join than the previous method. Enjoy!