Archive for the ‘Tutorial’ Category

Hat How-to

Today I attempted to teach my crochet guild how to make a Crochet-on-the-Double hat (or this Crochet-on-the-Double hat).

I’ve made a follow-up tutorial, and was going to make it a post, but there are so very many pictures that I decided it needed it’s own page. So, click here, or scroll right to the top of this page and click on “hat”. Again, there are a LOT of pictures, so it might take some time to load.

Here’s a sample pic:
DSC03774

Please, please, please give me any feedback you can if you try out this tutorial. It was somewhat complicated to put together and my eyes are too blurry now to see if I missed something or messed up. I haven’t figured out how to do comments on the special pages, so feel free to comment here if you see any problems, or comment on any post here, or send me an e-mail if you have the address. Thank you so much!

We don’t need no stinkin’ base chain

“What’s wrong with base chains?” you may be asking. Nothing, really. They are quite useful most of the time. In fact, they don’t really make a difference most of the time. Sometimes, though, they’re quite annoying.

For example, base chains aren’t particularly stretchy. This is a good thing if you want a nice, solid base to work with, and less so if you’re making, say, clothing.

Base chains are kind of annoying to work into; even the most advanced crocheters spend way more time working the first row into the base chain than they do working any other row in their project.

The reason this tutorial is coming up now is because base chains are at their most annoying when working with variegated yarn.

I give you this example:

DSC03687

This is from the pattern for my Jan. 1st motif. I made the first one the regular way, with a bunch of chains, then a dc worked into each chain. The second one was made using the method I’m about to describe.

If you look closely, you can see, very clearly, the base chain on the first example. The colours don’t match the stitches of the first row. I imagine there are some projects where this won’t matter (I can’t think of any off hand, though…), but in this one it’s quite obvious. If I’d made all of my strips that way, my motif would have looked quite odd.

I made all of my strips like the second example, and they look quite nice. Notice how the colours all match up. Purple on top of purple, dark teal on top of dark teal.

Here’s how I did it:

ch1, no-turning-chain-dc (or ch4, if you wish) :
DSC03679

yo, insert hook into first ch made, pull up a loop (just as you normally would to make a dc) 3 loops on hook:
DSC03680

yo and pull through one loop (ch made), 3 loops on hook:
DSC03681

Finish the dc stitch as normal; yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops. 1 loop left on hook:
DSC03682

Here’s the “tricky” part. yo, and insert hook in the ch you made at the bottom of the last dc. I inserted my hook under both arms of the ch to make for a pretty bottom edge:
DSC03683

Pull a loop through:
DSC03684

yo and pull a loop through the first loop on hook (ch made) :
DSC03685

Finish dc as normal:
DSC03686

Keep doing this until you get the number of dc stitches you need (did I mention this method is excellent for when you don’t feel like counting chains? It’s the base chain and first row done all at once!). Basically just start your stitch as you normally would, but once all of the loops are on the hook, do a ch-1 in the first one, then work the stitch off as normal, and work the next stitch into that ch-1 you made.

Today’s motif is from Beyond The Square again , but it’s from the circles section! (if anyone is wondering, I got this book for Christmas, and I’m just really enjoying it.) It is motif #6 found on p 43:

2010-01-03-BTS006

I’m getting better at taller stitches thanks to this book, and I thought this one turned out nicely. That circle in the middle is quite solid though… perhaps that will grow on me. I wonder what this would look like tiled… any idea how to tile decagons?

Circle in a Square

My last post left a question unanswered: what was I doing while waiting for that white yarn?

Well, it started with these:
pink, yellow, variegated motifs
which I figure will end up being a small blanket, 4 squares by 5 squares, maybe. Each square is roughly 8 inches.

Then I made these (because who finishes a project before going on to the next one anymore?) :
two shades of green motif

And some matching solids:
green? motif
Which is actually the same colour (and dye lot!) as the dark green in the previous picture. Cameras are weird sometimes, aren’t they?

The current plan is to arrange the green ones 5×7 like this:
green blanket layout
Where any empty spaces will be filled by solid dark green motifs.

Once I see it all laid out, I’m going to see if all of that dark green needs to be separated with some light green borders, or something. We’ll see!

Here are all of the squares arranged by doneness:
lots o motifs
Top and bottom right, and bottom middle: finished
Top left (two piles) : need the ends woven in
Bottom left: ran out of yarn while making (and how annoying is THAT?)

Finally, here is the pattern I used!

Note: use an appropriate method to reach the right stitch height for each round. I used the no-turning-chain-dc on the dc rounds, and ch2 for hdc, and ch1 for sc. I didn’t note any of this in the pattern because it’s easier to memorize it this way. ^_^

Start with magic loop, or ch1 no-turning-chain-dc, or whatever your preferred method.

Rnd 1: 12 dc
Rnd 2: 2dc in each dc from previous round (24 dc)
Rnd 3: *2dc in one st, 1dc in next st* 12 times (36 dc)
Rnd 4: *1dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st* 12 times (48 dc)
Rnd 5: *1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times (60 dc)
Change colours here if you want.
Rnd 6: *1sc in each of 10 sts, 1hdc in next 2 sts, 5dc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* 4 times (76 sts)
Rnd 7: *1hdc in each sc of previous rnd (10hdc), 1dc in each of next 4 sts, 5dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 4 sts* 4 times (92 sts)
Rnd 8: 1dc in each st, 5dc in the middle stitch of the 5dc on previous round. (108 sts)

To make it bigger, repeat Rnd 8 as many times as you want. It will add 16 sts to your count each time. If you want a bigger circle in the centre, well, you’re going to have to finesse the pattern a bit.

If any of you try this, want to let me know if there are any errors in the pattern? Thanks!

How to join hexagon motifs

Just a quick post tonight, but I think you’ll like it!

How to efficiently join hexagon motifs together.

Step 1: lay out the motifs how you want them. (Not pictured… I worked off of the pic of the last Catan blanket I made)

Step 2: Start joining the hexes together in horizontal lines. For example, start with the motif in the bottom left and join it to the one to its right. Then join the one to the right of that. And so on until you reach the end of that row. Then start in on the next row and work the same way, until you have something like this:
Settlers of Catan blanket - in progress
(I know, it’s a terrible picture, and white was a bad choice for the background, but the other option was a blue floral print. In my defense, I tried that one first, but mostly because I was too lazy to turn the blanket over… but it was worse than this pic, so…)

Step 3: Once you have your rows all laid out, start sewing them together as per the blue line:
how to join hexagon motifs

That red line is how I’m going to join the blue water hexes. I’m doing it that way because I want to use the cream colour to join the water hexes to the others, but want to use blue yarn to join them to each other.

The red line could also represent putting a border on.

That’s all there is to it! (Ok, I lie… there’s also, “what method should I use for joining?” I’m using a whip stitch, but you could slip stitch or sc, or flat braid, or… )

Becky’s Law

All bets are off!

We saw it the last time I made a Settlers of Catan blanket. I had “only” a month to make it, and finished it easily in a week. I estimated how much yarn I’d need and ended up with about twice as much. Ok, that last part worked in my favour given that I’m now making the blanket again.

In my last post I asked for bets on whether or not I’d finish this blanket by the time Big On Bloor rolled around, but I’m canceling that, because it just wouldn’t be fair to my new visitors who weren’t around to see the craziness the last time!

This is what I got done last night, including time spent stash diving to find the yarn:

Settlers of Catan crocheted hexes. Brick, ore, and wood

And that’s with a splitting headache, to boot!

Anyhow, here is the goal:

3 brick – done
3 ore – 2/3 done
4 wood – 1/4 done
4 sheep – 1/4 done (not pictured)
4 grain
1 desert
18 water

A couple of notes: First, would you believe that, even though I over-bought the last time I made this, I still managed to run out of the light grey colour? Hopefully I can get another skein of that tomorrow. Second, I’m changing how I do the water. I’m doing hexes this time, because that’s how the original version of the game is set up, and frankly, I was never happy with how the water went on the last blanket.

Other changes from last time are the addition of built-in number disks. I intend on sewing the numbers in once the blanket is together. The hexes are also smaller this time. Last time I did 8 rounds of dc, this time I’m doing 6. The reason for this is that I’m adding extra hexes for the water, and also, the last blanket was necessarily HUGE, and this one needn’t be.

If you’re interested in making this blanket, here’s a rough guide to what I’m doing:

Yarn: Bernat Satin
Hook: 9mm
Double strand.
Check out this post for the exact colours I’m using.

Hex pattern:

Note: To make the number disks do the first two rounds with the border colour (I’m using “Silk”), then switch the appropriate hex colour for the rest, then back to the border colour for the round of sc.

ch 3
Rnd 1: 11 dc in 3rd ch from hook, join with a slst to the top of the ch3
Rnd 2: ch 2 (counts as a dc), dc into base of that ch, 2dc in each st, join. (24 stitches)
Rnd 3: ch 2 (counts as a dc), 2 dc into base of that ch, 1 dc in next 3 sts, *3dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts* repeat until you get all the way around, join (36 stitches, 6 “3dc” groups evenly spaced).

For all following rounds: 3dc in the middle st of the 3dc group of the previous round, 1 dc in all other stitches. Each round the stitch count increases by 12.

Last round: join border colour, ch 1. 1 sc in each stitch around, 3 sc in the middle st of each 3dc group. join.

(Becky’s Law: You WILL overestimate the amount of time/materials you will need, unless you instead overestimate the size the finished project need be.)

2/3rds of the way there!

The plan was to do the chain stitch AND single crochet tutorial tonight, but my pictures for single crochet came out terribly, so that will have to wait until another time. (Not too long, I hope!)

We’ve all seen intricate things made using crochet, and most folks find the number of different crochet stitches possible to be a bit overwhelming. Chain stitch, single crochet, double crochet, half-double crochet, shell stitch, filet crochet, tunisian crochet, puff stitch, popcorn stitch… How daunting!

When taken at its most basic, though, in order to do any of those stitches, one only needs to know how to do three things: insert hook, yarn over, and pull through. What differentiates the stitches is how many times and in what order you do those three things.

To do a chain stitch, which you pretty much start every crochet project with, you only need to know two of the main three maneuvers: yarn over, pull through.

To start, make a slip knot in your yarn and put it on your hook. Hold the yarn in a manner you find suitable, and hold your hook either like a knife (my preference), or like a pencil (I find this hard on my wrist, your mileage may vary).

To do a yarn over (yo) start with the hook above the yarn:
starting a yarn over (yo)

Rotate the hook around the yarn in a counter-clockwise direction:
mid-yarn-over (yo)

That’s it! You’ll do a LOT of yarn overs in your crocheting career.

The next step in a chain stitch is the pull through. Start with the yarn over, then continue like this:

Look at the loop that is on the hook already. You’ll see that it is not a circle shape, as one might expect, but a tear-drop shape. Turn your hook so that the end of the hook is lined up with the pointy part of the tear-drop:
starting a pull through

Making sure you’ve caught the yarn in the hook, pull it through the loop on the hook:
mid-pull through

Push the hook up so that the new loop you just made is on the shaft (the part of the hook between the hooked end and the flat thumb rest). This is important to getting a nice, even, easy-to-use chain:
finished chain stitch (ch)

And that’s it! Do that over and over again to produce a “base chain” which is the starting point of a flat piece, or to make a starting loop for crochet in the round (tutorial to come!).
base chain

Things to do with the miles of chain stitches you’re likely to produce while practicing this: wrist wrap, scarf.

Good luck!

Crochet Tutorial – Getting Started!

I’ve started working on a project that I’ve had in mind for a while now: creating thorough tutorials on every aspect of crocheting. My hope is that someone will find this useful, and that people will feel free to ask any question, no matter how silly, because in answering these questions we end up with a more exact tutorial. And that’s a good thing!

Today I’m going to cover picking yarn and a matching hook, how to make a slip knot, and how to hold the yarn while crocheting. If you already know these things, take a look at the pretty slippers I made myself for work:
blue striped crochet slippers

Everyone else, please join me under the cut:
(more…)

On Top of Things

After a long slew of bright and bold baby blankets, I think I’m finally ready to go back to the old pale green and yellow stripes again.

Remember this one?
green and yellow striped baby blanket

Yep! I’m totally ready to get back to it! (Look at me, being all responsible! Finishing what I start, and all.)

In other news, I decided to prep some more eyelash yarn for use. I can never find the centre-pull on novelty yarn, so I rewound a couple of balls in an effort to solve that problem:
two balls of Bernat Eyelash yarn rewound into centre-pull balls

There they are, all prepped and ready for me to do more experimenting.

What’s that?

Behind the yarn? I don’t know what you’re talking about.

No, wait! There’s no need to look closer! Wait- !
I don't know what you're looking at here...

Seriously, back away from the laptop! Don’t make me get ugly! *shakes a fist*

yellow and green crochet-on-the-double blanket

Ok, ok. I admit it. I’ve started another blanket. At least it’s pale green and yellow! That’s a step in the right direction, right?

Er…

And now for a distraction helpful video! Tired of uneven edges when doing rows of dc? Unhappy with how different the turning chain looks from the regular stitches? (”ch3 counts as first dc” my butt!) Check out this video I found on how to skip the turning chain and start with a dc.

(And don’t forget to watch the tc version)

What?

I’ve got nothing

I worked on the purple shells blanket a bit today, but it doesn’t look much different from yesterday, so just use your imagination and add a few more rows on yesterday’s picture. ^_-

I did wind some centre-pull balls, though, using this
video tutorial.

If you can’t watch the video right now, the short version is this:

Lay the end of the yarn across your left hand between your thumb and pointer finger. Start wrapping the yarn around your thumb and pinky in a figure-8 pattern. Do this quite a bit. More than you think you need to. I found the thicker the figure-8 part, the easier the yarn comes out when you’re ready to use it.

The entire time you’re winding the yarn make sure you don’t bury the end… you need to have this sticking out of the ball when you’re done for this to work!

Once you have lots of yarn wound in a figure-8 pattern (I like to make it at least an inch thick before moving on to the next step), take the yarn off of your fingers and start wrapping the yarn around the middle of the figure-8. Remember not to bury your yarn end!

Winding the ball pretty much goes as you’re likely used to winding them from this point on. I change directions periodically to make it a ball shape. Just don’t go “vertically” and cover the ends of the figure-8. Any other direction is fine.

Here’s one of mine (it’s scrap yarn, so I wound around my pointer and middle fingers held apart to make for a shorter yarn cake) :
centre-pull ball of yarn

Good luck!

Crochet-on-the-Double Tutorial

Welcome to fantasticmio.com! As my first post on my new blog I thought I’d start with something useful: a tutorial for Crochet-On-The-Double. Future blog posts won’t be as picture-intensive as this one, so no worries!

Things to expect here in the future: works in progress (yes, that is plural!), new things I’ve learned regarding yarn, rants about yarn, singing the praises of yarn, sentences with yarn as every other word, and the occasional non-yarn related topics (do those even exist?).

On to the usefulness!

(more…)